Farra Wine Bar
This is a small, focused list of 25 wines, every one of them poured by the glass, and the whole thing is built around Madeira. Nearly half the bottles are dessert and fortified, with D'Oliveiras carrying the section across Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, and Malvazia, which is also where the money lives, topping out at $325 for the Malvazia. The dry side is short but credible, with Dönnhoff from the Nahe, Lucien Crochet's Sancerre, Familia Torres, and Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte from Bordeaux. Pricing skews very accessible since the median sits around $30 and plenty opens at $15, so the splurge is almost entirely in the old Madeira. Point guests here toward the fortified pours and toward by the glass exploration, because that flexibility and that Madeira depth are what this list rewards.