Gabriel Kreuther

This is a Burgundy house first and foremost, with 242 listings from the region anchoring a list that runs 2,403 bottles deep. The white side is the real strength, built on the great Meursault and Volnay growers like Roulot, Comtes Lafon, Henri Germain, and Michel Niellon, and the cellar climbs all the way to Domaine de la Romanee Conti at the very top, where Romanee Conti and La Tache push into five figures. Champagne and the Vallee de la Marne show up in real depth, and Trimbach gives you the Alsace backbone you would expect from this kitchen, but California and the Rhone are thinner support roles rather than focal points. Prices span an enormous range, from $21 up to $22,500 with a median around $355, so there is plenty here for a guest who wants to spend modestly even if the headline bottles are trophies. The 58 wines by the glass give you room to work without opening anything precious, but understand the floor and the ceiling on this list are very far apart, and your job is to read the table and steer accordingly.

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