L'Escaleta

This is a deep, serious cellar of 1,362 wines built around red Spain, with Rioja the single largest region at 107 listings and a strong showing from local Comunidad Valenciana Alicante producers like Curii and the heavyweight Vega Sicilia. France is well represented through Champagne, Burgundy, and Châteauneuf du Pape, and there is real bench strength in sparkling and in dessert and fortified wine, where Andalucia Jerez and the sherry house Gutiérrez de la Vega run deep with 126 bottles in that category. German Riesling is a quiet pocket worth knowing, with Dönnhoff, Fritz Haag, and Dr. Bürklin Wolf all on the list. Pricing starts accessibly, with bottles around 31 to 39 EUR, so the list is not only a collector's playground. Note there is no by the glass program, so every guest is committing to a full bottle, which makes this a list that rewards a confident pairing conversation at the table.

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