Mastro's Steakhouse at the Post Oak Hotel

This is a Wine Spectator Grand Award list and it drinks like one, north of 4,000 selections built squarely around red wine, with deep benches in Napa Valley, Bordeaux, and Burgundy. The collector firepower is in the reds: Olivier Bernstein and Domaine de la Romanee Conti out of Burgundy, Gaja from Piedmont, plus a serious Bordeaux library that runs up to Chateau Gruaud Larose and Chateau Margaux at the very top, where bottles climb into five and six figures. Whites are real but secondary, anchored by Domaine Leflaive in white Burgundy, and Champagne is well covered with 177 listings. Bottles open at 30 dollars with a median around 285, so there is everyday range underneath the trophies, but know that there is no wine by the glass, so every guest is committing to a full bottle. This list rewards the table that wants to trade up into mature Bordeaux or grand cru Burgundy, and you should steer accordingly.

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