O' by Claude Le Tohic

This is a big, serious French leaning cellar of over 1,100 wines built around Burgundy, with the Rhone, California, Bordeaux, and Champagne filling out the depth. It skews red, and the bench is real: Bruno Clair, Jacques Frederic Mugnier, Leflaive, and Raveneau on the Burgundy side, Thierry Allemand and Tempier in the Rhone and Provence, Diamond Creek and Heitz from California. Prices run from $20 to $11,000 with a median around $250, so there is plenty to point guests toward below $100 even as the top end reaches Liger Belair, Petrus, Screaming Eagle, and DRC. The 20 wines by the glass are a modest program against a list this deep, so steer anyone who wants range toward bottles. This rewards the Burgundy hunter and the collector chasing back vintages more than the casual by the glass drinker.

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