Osteria Mozza

This is an Italian list, and really a Piedmontese one, built around Nebbiolo. Of 1170 wines, 778 are red, and the gravity is all in Barolo with 288 listings and Barbaresco with 115, so when a guest wants tradition you can lean hard on names like Giacomo Conterno, Brovia, Bartolo Mascarello, and Roagna. Depth at the top is serious, with Conterno's Monfortino reaching $7,000 and Roagna's Crichet Paje at $6,000, but the floor starts at $15 and the median sits near $300, so there is real drinking below the trophies if you steer people there. Outside Piedmont you have some Tuscan weight in Bolgheri and Masseto, a little Etna, and a modest sparkling and white section, plus a thin 17 wine by the glass program, so the glass pours are a convenience, not where this cellar shows off. It rewards the Barolo and Barbaresco lover above all, and it pays to know your traditionalists from your modernists before you open your mouth on the floor.

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