Crane Club
This is a red wine list at heart, with 255 reds out of 473 bottles, and its center of gravity is Piedmont, especially Barolo, where we go deep on Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, and Bartolo Mascarello. Champagne is the other backbone, strong across cuvée and blanc de blancs with names like Krug and Marguet, and white Burgundy holds its own through Domaine Leflaive and Roulot. Prices run wide, from $18 up to $12,000 with a median around $295, so there is real money at the top, the Petrus and DRC La Tâche tier, but also bottles you can sell to a curious table without a wince. The glass program is modest at 26 pours, so by the bottle is where this list does its talking. It rewards guests who know Nebbiolo and grower Champagne, and it gives you room to trade up a Piedmont lover.