Geranium

Geranium's list is built on Burgundy above all, with more than 800 red Burgundies and another 560 whites, so this is where you steer a guest who knows what they want and wants depth. Beyond that the strength runs to California, especially Napa, with serious bottles like Mayacamas, Dominus, and Shafer Hillside Select, plus a real Piedmont bench led by Barolo. Marquee names are here if a table is spending freely: Petrus, Chateau d'Yquem, Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny. With 6,147 wines on the list, it rewards the guest who can talk to you about a region or producer rather than scan a page. The glass program is small at 35 pours, so by the glass is a starting point, not the heart of the list, and the depth lives in the bottles.

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