Huso
This is a France leaning list built on a deep Champagne core, with 36 sparkling wines and grower and grande marque houses sitting side by side, from Laurent Perrier and Krug down to Pehu Simonet and Drappier. Reds run almost as deep at 48 bottles, split between French Burgundy and Bordeaux and a strong Italian bench, where you will find Gaja, Dal Forno Romano, and three listings of Vega Sicilia. The top end is serious, topping out with Domaine de la Romanee Conti Romanee Saint Vivant at 4,600 and Lafite at 2,600, but a median around 220 and a floor of 21 mean there is real range for the floor to work with. The 22 wines by the glass, weighted toward white and sparkling, give us a flexible pour program. This list rewards a guest who knows Champagne and old world reds, and a server who can steer between the everyday bottles and the trophies.