Le Bon Nosh
This is a big, white leaning list of 588 bottles built around Burgundy and the Loire, with a real specialty in Chablis. Patrick Piuze alone shows up 26 times and Domaine Faiveley anchors the higher end, so we are deep in Chardonnay from premier cru and village level Chablis on through the Maconnais, with cru Beaujolais like Fleurie and Yann Bertrand giving us juicy reds to pour against it. Prices open at $15 and climb to a $13,724 Romanee Conti Corton Charlemagne, but the median around $187 and a strong run of Loire whites from Anjou and Saumur mean there is plenty in fair territory for a guest who wants something interesting without a blowout. The 30 glass pours, split roughly even between white and red, let us move people into this style easily. Reach for it with the table that trusts you on a mineral, energetic white or a fresh Gamay.