Poisson Restaurant (Cologne)

A compact 95 bottle list leaning white over red, with a real Champagne and sparkling section at 24 selections that suits a seafood forward room. German Riesling anchors the list through Strobl Rosenberg. Pricing is in euros, from 35 up to 590, with a median of 115, and vintages reach back to 1988, giving some age at the top without an enormous cellar. There is no by the glass program, so this is a bottle house through and through, best suited to guests ready to order a full bottle to go with fish.

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